Daybreak on the Arvanitia Promenade: Nafplio Greece : Diary of a Gen-X Traveler

It was hot here in Nafplio, Greece, yet we wanted to stroll along the Arvanitia Promenade. We decided to get up early and arrive at the break of dawn, take the stroll, and end up going for a swim at Arvanitia Beach. We had originally planned on walking this path during our 2024 trip to the Peloponnese but ran out of time. Therefore, it was on our “must do” list for our 2026 trip. Not only did we check this off our bucket list, we enjoyed the walk on Arvanitia Promenade and swim so much we did this every morning while in Nafplio, Greece! As a matter of fact, I would visit Nafplio again just to enjoy this daybreak walk and swim!

Location

Arvanitia Promenade is located in Nafplio, Greece, along the southern edge of the city. It lies on the northeastern shoreline of the Argolic Gulf and can be accessed from the harbor of old town.

The Harbor

We started at the harbor just as dawn was breaking. You can find several places to park. We parked just above the harbor area and walked down the steps to the promenade. We had absolutely no problem parking as there were not many people up and about at this time of day. Although not hot, it was surprisingly warm for such an early hour. I was glad I came prepared for a swim as I figured it would get pretty hot before our walk was over. The stillness and quietness of the harbor gave a peaceful ambiance to the still-slumbering town.

The Path

The path is easy to walk. It is only 1 kilometer in length. Regardless, we were glad we chose the mornings to walk, as forecasts of 100°F weather were on our minds. With the blue of the Argolic Gulf on one side and the towering, orange-tinted cliffs on the other, this was sure to be a scenic walk. This path follows the base of the rock which the Acronauplia Castle sits upon. We visited this castle during our 2024 trip so it was fun to see it from below and make the connection.

There is just something about being up so early that heightens my senses and makes me feel more alive. I could almost taste the fresh sea air, mingling with the wild Greek herbs. The steady, low motor of a small fishing boat putting out to sea cut through the otherwise still quietness of the path. Although the sun hadn’t risen, the growing light of dawn was announcing the beginning of the day. I was enjoying this sense of peace as I walked along the stone path, captivated by the magic spell of daybreak.

Bourtzi Fortress View

As we walked, we could see the lights of Nafplio twinkling in town and reflecting off the water. We could see Bourtzi Fortress, the “Castle in the Water” from the path. This is one of the iconic landmarks which Nafplio is known for. This was fun to see from this view as our plan was to visit Bourtzi Fortress after breakfast.

The Locked Gates

Along the path, you will come across two locked gates extending across the path itself—one at the beginning and one at the end of the Arvanitia Promenade. Because of the locks, it would appear we could not walk the path. But watching others and reading about this, you just step or swing around the gate and pass to the other side. It worked not just for us, but for everyone on the path, whether they were walking, jogging, riding a bike, or on a moped! Note though, because of landslides, this path is officially closed by the municipality. You enter at your own risk.

Panagitsa Chapel

I had heard about the Panagitsa Chapel and have seen videos of this on YouTube. It sits in the rocky cliff inside the opening of a cave, about halfway down the path. There are several steps that lead to this chapel and of course we decided to check this out. On videos we had viewed, the steps were described as many, steep, and a tough walk up. Thankfully we found this not to be true. It was just a 10-15 step climb up. The chapel itself was not opened.

The original chapel in the cave dates back to 1680-1715 as a place of worship for the Venetians. The modern Greek Orthodox church which is currently here was built in 1850. It is said this church was used as a Kryfo Sholio, secret school. During the Ottoman times, it was against the law to teach Greek language, history, and religion. So Orthodox Priests taught Greek children these fundamentals of their heritage and culture in many secret schools throughout the country. This kept the Greek way of life alive through the years.

The Tunnel

I love a tunnel, whether walking through one or driving through one. I just think they are fun. I like how they frame the view as you pass to the other side. The tunnel along the Arvanitia Promenade is one of the picture-perfect spots in Nafplio, Greece. Although it is a short tunnel, it is dramatically cut into the cliffs, forming an arch. Walking through it and seeing the Palamidi Fortress through the tunnel view is quite awe-inspiring. It was especially dramatic at this time of the morning when the early morning light adds shadows all around.

The Beach

Since we took this walk three days in a row, we enjoyed different morning views of the beach, including at daybreak as well as sunrise. The shore is rocky, but the water is perfect for swimming. I can’t begin to put into words how glorious it felt to swim as the day was beginning. Feeling the cold water, tasting the salt in the sea, and watching the first light turn the golden cliffs into a range of different shades was so sublime. For me, this felt like a gift each morning.

Kalimera! Kalimera!

While walking along the path and at the beach, we heard the cheerful greetings of “Kalimera! Kalimera!” from people passing one another. I love not just to hear it, but also to say the word “Kalimera.” Kali means good or beautiful, and mera means day. Kalimera is a greeting in the mornings until 1 or 2 p.m. It is such a happy-sounding word; it truly makes the day feel good and puts a smile on my face when I hear or say it. We also enjoyed joining in this morning chorus as we encountered people on our early morning adventure.

Breakfast

After a refreshing swim, we trekked back along the trail to our car and drove back to the hotel for breakfast. We stayed at Anthemion Suites. This is our second time staying here as we stayed here in 2024 and loved the place. Their breakfast is delicious and includes homemade pastries! If you are in Nafplio, I highly recommend Anthemion Suites.

Conclusion

I absolutely loved walking along the Arvanitia Promenade during our days in Nafplio, Greece. It was a fantastic and memorable start to this year’s trip. I am hoping to return here in a couple of years and once again enjoy our lovely early morning swims.

Books About the Peloponnese

I love to read and I read many books about Greece. The following helped spike my interest in the Peloponese area of Greece for many different reasons.

Greek Letters (Greek Quartet Series) by Suzi Stembridge This captivating series follows an Englishman and his family and their connection to Greece. The series starts in 1827 as the Englishman, while on his journey to Greece, finds himself amid Greece fighting for its freedom. The four volumes follow the rich history of Greece as it emerges from Ottoman rule and beyond. I really learned a lot about this period of Greek history from reading these books. I also found the history of this era in the Peloponnese to be fascinating.
A Boy Growing Up Under the Nazi Boot and the Greek Civil War by George C. Kradikas. This book is a true account of the early years of Mr Kakridas as his family endures hardships beyond compare while growing up near Sparta during occupation years. A poignant story told with the emotion and memories as only someone living through this period can retell.
Mycenae from Myth to History This extraordinary book not only goes in-depth to the history and archeological study of ancient Mycenae, it also features photography by Robert McCabe. Actually that is why I purchased this book. Robert McCabe has taken black and white photographs of the Greece we do not see for decades and his work is beautiful.

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