Our first stop on our 2026 trip to Greece was the Arcaheological Site of Eleusis. After landing, we rented a car at Athens International Airport and started off for Nafplio. The Ancient site of Eleusis was on the way so it became a perfect first stop in Greece to stretch our legs. We did a bit of a quick self-tour as it was very hot out, regardless, we both felt we had a good understanding of the site.
*Note: I am not a historian or scholar of Greek Archaeology or history. This post is based on my own research and my experience visiting here. I strive to be as accurate as I can, but as always, I welcome clarifying information from others.
Location
Ancient Eleusis is about 40 minutes northwest of Athens International Airport on E94 in Greece. If you turn on to road 65 and follow along the coast you will actually be traveling on the paved over Ancient Sacred Way which ancients used to pilgrimage to Eleusis from Athens.
Visiting Eleusis
The Archaeological Site of Ancient Eleusis is easy to access and the museum is within its compounds. I think it is important to have some knowledge of Eleusis before visiting. The key historic aspect comes from the mysterious and secret rituals which were performed here at the annual nine day Festival. I planned our self-guided tour around this festival as you will be see below. Coincidently, the order of the festival was pretty much the order in which a person would tour this site.
I also wanted to note when we first entered the site, there was a historian who gave us wonderful information and great insight to not only the archaeological site but the festival as well.
Eleusinian Mysteries
Not only was Ancient Eleusis an important and sacred religious sanctuary in Greece, it also has an age old mystery attached to this site. The Eleusinian Mysteries were part of an initiation surrounded by secrecy which happened during a yearly festival. To fully participate in the festivals here, one needed to be invited and also go through a formal mysterious initiation for membership. The rituals for this mysterious group promised the freedom of fear of death and a blissful afterlife. After going through the initiation, members often had a new outlook on life, were at peace, joyful and lived life fully.
This initiation process is still not known as these ancient members took a vow of secrecy. As a matter of fact, revealing these secrets were punishable by death. Since we know very little to this day, it appears these ancient Greeks were very good at keeping secrets!
The Nine Days of the Eleusis Festival
First and Second Day-Athens
The Eleusis Festival in ancient Greece was a large nine day gathering at the sanctuary of Eleusis held in the early fall. The festival actually started in Athens where the high priest summoned those gathered at the Agora. On the second day, the high priest would order the initiates to the sea, and along with their sacrificial piglets, they would wash and cleanse themselves in the cold salt water of the sea. Once cleansed the initiate would return to Athens to sacrifice their pig thus completing their purification.
Third and Fourth Day-Athens
The third day found the initiates giving various sacrificial offers to the state such as goats, cattle and more pigs. This was to honor the gods Demeter and Persephone. After these busy three days, day four was a much needed day of rest! This also made for a grace period to allow late arrivals to catch up. Many initiates would honor the god of healing Asklepieion, by spending time in the Temple of Asklepieion on the slope of the Acropolis.
Fifth Day-on to Eleusis
Day five was a busy and energetic day. There was a massive crowd that walked the 14 mile (22.5 km) journey from Athens to Eleusis which was quite a walk for the ancient people of Greece.The crowd would consist of up to 3000 initiates and thousands more onlookers, family members, and tourists joined in. This walk became more of a street party with merchants, citizens, and tourists lining the roads with refreshments and music. Initiates would chant “Iakch’o Iakche” as they went along in a rhythmic hypnotic tone. There would be dancing, singing and drinking.
Outer Courtyard
Once arriving at the sanctuary late in the night on the fifth day, the initiates would first arrive at the Outer Courtyard (Roman Court) where they lit hand held flaming torches upon arrival.
Kallichoron Well
They then proceeded to the Kallichoron Well. There would be a ring of rhythmic ritualistic dancing with music from flutes and drums. The people would celebrate their safe arrival late into the night until exhaustion over came them and they slept outside the walls wherever they found space.
Sixth Day-Eleusis
After all of this, day six was a day spent resting, contemplating and preparing. On this day, the initiates drank a special drink called kykeon. Kykeon is a slurry like drink consisting of water, barley and mint.
Greater Propylaea and Lesser Propylaea
At nightfall of the sixth day, the initiates, as a group, walked through the Greater Propylaea and continued through the Lesser Propylaea which was their official entry to the sacred inner grounds.
Ploutonion Cave-The Threshold of Hades
Just after passing through the Lesser Propylaea, the initiates passed the entrance of the Ploutonion Cave. This natural cave was believed to be the Threshold of Hades and brought fear to many by just passing by.
Processional Way
Basically, the Processional Way is a continuation of the Sacred Way which originated in Athens. The Processional Way is inside the city. It starts at the Lesser Propylaea and continues to the Telesterion, the main Temple of Demeter. It ascended the slope of the hill, passing by the cave. Statues adorned both sides of the way.
The Seventh and Eight Day-Rituals
Telesterion
At nightfall on the seventh and eight days, the initiates were led into the dark Telesterion and remained in the dark while awaiting the secret rituals. These nights were known as The Nights of the Mysteries. The chosen ones were in pitch darkness in this large building. During this time, the initiates were put through three specific events. The Dromena, the Deiknumena and the Legomena.
They sat on the rock cut tiers seen below. Just think, people have been sitting here since 600 BC! Can you imagine sitting here in the dark shoulder to shoulder not knowing what to expect next?
During the Dromena (things done) ritual, the initiates were fully involved in some sort of physical, sensory journey. This journey evoked deep fear and caused despair yet they lived through it. This part was certain. The actual experience is not known. Possibly a theatrical descent into the underworld with loud noises and other sensory stressors that put real fear in the initiates.
The Deiknumena (things shown) ritual occurred when the high priest displayed religious items in a sudden burst of light. The room continued to be pitch black, and the light was sudden such as an intense flame. These are facts that historians know. What is not known is what the high priest displayed, or what its context was in relationship to the Eleusinian Mysteries.
The final and third ritual was the Legomena (things said). Historians know these words were short, chant like, which explained the meaning of the symbols. These words were spoken by the high priest when the objects were revealed and directly correlated with that object. What is not known is what these words, chants or cues actually were.
Once these rituals concluded the newly enlightened left the darkness of the Telesterion and celebrated their survival and enlightening in the Rharian Field where there was pure joy, energetic dancing broke out for hours, and the feasting began. The initiates were now Epoptes (those who have seen the light).
Ninth Day
The ninth day was a day of reflection known as the Plemochoai. It was a joyful day, as they had seen the light and in addition, conquered the fear of death. They reflected on honoring the dead but in a way that was a joyful celebrant and also somewhat triumphant. During this day there were two more rituals, the pouring of libations and a cosmic incantation ritual. Once these concluded the newly reborn began to gather their belongings for home.
Return Home
After the festival at Eleusis, initiates returned to whichever part of Greece they were from to finish living their lives with a new found transformation and outlook. They no longer feared death and in addition, had a peaceful aura about them. They took a lifetime vow of secrecy punishable by death if they revealed the deep secrets of the Eleusinian Mysteries.
Other Sites of Interest at the Archeological Site of Eleusis
West Triumphal Arch
On the west side of the Roman Court is the Triumphal Arch. It was identical to the East Triumphal Arch although not much of this remains.
The Bust of Marcus Aurelius
This large bust of Emperor Marcus Aurelius once stood at the center above the entrance of the Greater Propylaea. Marcus Aurelius is credited for building this in the 2nd century after he his initiaion into the Eleusinian Mysteries.
East Triumphal Arch
The East Side of the Roman Court is where you will find the East Triumphal Arch. Through this arch was a road which led outside the walls and contained baths, hostels, and other public places which the initiates could use. This arch is made from pentelic marble. On top of the arch was written “The Panhellenes Dedicated the Arch to the Goddesses and the Emperor.
Gymnasium
The gymnasium was built during the Roman Era. As with the classical belief in Greece, the Eleusis gymnasium was designed with the concept “a healthy mind in a healthy body”. In addition to workout rooms there were courtyards, educational rooms, and also relaxation areas.
The Periclean Fortificaton Wall
This was built during the Pericles’s era around the 5th century BC. This wall further fortified the city. These limestone blocks amazingly have perfectly fit corners! I think we both were pretty excited to walk along these walls that have been standing for centuries.
Roman Cisterns
Just outside of the Periclean Wall you will find the Roman Cisterns. There were many cisterns and also fountains to provide water for the many people who came here to worship and be initiated.
Roman Fountain
Within the outer courtyard you will find ruins of the huge Roman Fountain which provided fresh water for thousands of people.
Baths and Hostels
As mentioned above, the road through the arch led to baths and hostels.
Temple of Artemis Propylaia and Father Poseidon
You will also find the temple of Artemis Propylaia and Father Poseidon. This temple was located in the center of the courtyard in front of the gate. As a matter of fact, Artemis Propylaia literally means “Artemis in front of the gates.” Inside the temple were statues of both the goddess and the god. In addition, outside, just in front of the temple, were two stone altars. The larger one was for Poseidon and the slightly smaller one belonged to Artemis. Initiates would often stop and leave items or sacrifices for the gods.
Temple of Sabina
The Temple of Sabina is located near the north side of the Telesterion on a slope. Sabina was the much loved wife of the Roman Emperor Hadrian. Built into a hillside this Roman Temple had 10 marble steps to a porch with four columns. Inside a large and beautiful statue of Sabina stood. She was worshipped as a living god. In Eleusis, as in many sites in Greece, the Romans built on what was already there to serve their own purpose as is the case with this temple.
Archaeological Museum of Eleusis
This museum is within the Archaeological Site of Eleusis and is the oldest museum in Greece. Built in 1889 it houses the treasures found during excavations. It sits on the hill overlooking the site. Although the museum is not large it holds some remarkable pieces and I truly enjoyed visiting here.
Historical Individuals Initiated into the Eleusinian Mysteries
Socrates-Plato-Aristotyle-Pericles-EurAeschylus-Sophocles-Pindar-Plutarch-Cicero-Hadrian-Augustus Ceasar-Marcus Aurelius-Demothenes-Herodotus-Euripides-Cleithenes
Conclusion
I really enjoyed the Archaeological Site of Eleusis and I love the mystery connected to this Ancient site in Greece. I am glad we had researched Eleusis in advance as I believe it really gave us more comprehension and also added interest to this particular site in Greece.
Greece at Home
I have had a hard time finding Greek items that I love to import to my home in the United States. Below are a few links to items I have found to be dependable businesses and also great items. I actually use all of these items almost on a daily basis!
- For true Greek honey, mountain tea, and and also olive oil, I order online through Kilo Tea. They are prompt and in addition, I have never had problems with any of my orders. I highly recommend ordering from here as everything is delicious. You can click here to view and also order the Klio Tea products.
- Why not cook delicious Greek dishes at home! I love the cookbook, A Drop of Lady & My Greek Soul. Chef Krystina Kalapothakos family is from the Mani area. Her cookbook not only has wonderful, easy to follow Greek recipes, but she also includes great stories and insightful articles on Greece and its cooking culture.
Resources
Rick Steve’s Athens and the Peloponnese. When planning a trip I like to use travel books which I can mark, hi-light and take with me. If you have watched Rick Steves travel shows, and are familiar with him, this book will feel familiar. In addition, it includes a great two week itinerary. What I especially like is Athens and the Peloponnese in one book is very convenient.
DK Eyewitness Guides are my tried and true tour guides for just about everywhere. If you follow my posts, you will see I have recommended these for everywhere we go, from the USA to Europe. I love the way these books are broke down in sections for top 10 of each area, type of tours, places of interest and also places to eat. You can click here to view the DK Eyewitness Guide for Mainland and also the Peloponnese.
Map of Greece. I really like the National Geographic Maps and utilize them everywhere. Therefore, I am getting quite a collection. I already have this map of Greece so I did not purchase a separate Peloponese map. The map is durable, and also water resistant. Actually, I have been using the same map for a number of years now.
Greeka.com-This web site has information on just about everything and everywhere in Greece. Worth taking a look at.
Books About the Peloponnese
I love to read and I read many books about Greece. The following helped spike my interest in the Peloponese area of Greece for many different reasons.
- Greek Letters (Greek Quartet Series) by Suzi Stembridge This captivating series follows an Englishman and his family and their connection to Greece. The series starts in 1827 as the Englishman, on his journey to Greece, finds himself admist Greece fighting for its freedom. The 4 volumes follow the rich history of Greece as it overcomes the Ottoman rule and beyond. I really learned a lot about this time period of Greek history from reading these books. I also found the history of this era of the Peloponnese to be fascinating.
- Bucket to Greece by Victor Bucket. The Bucket to Greece series chronicles Victor and Marigold Bucket as they up root and move from London to the Peloponnese area of Greece. This book is humorous and also gives insight on the Greek Village life.
- A Boy Growing Up Under the Nazi Boot and the Greek Civil War by George C. Kradikas. This book is a true account of the early years of Mr Kakridas as his family endures hardships beyond compare while growing up near Sparta during occupation years. A poignant story told with the emotion and memories as only someone living through this period can retell.
- Mycenae from Myth to History This extraordinary book not only goes in-depth to the history and archeological study of ancient Mycenae, it also features photography by Robert McCabe. Actually that is why I purchased this book. Robert McCabe has taken black and white photographs of the Greece we do not see for decades and his work is beautiful.
You Can Also Follow Me on Instagram!!
Click on the links below to follow my Peloponnese Travels in Greece
Ancient Corinth-September 2024
Ancient Olympia: Birthplace of the Olympics-September 2024
The Old Fortress of Pylos-August 2024
Aria Estate Suites and Spa August 2024
Kardamyli Old Town-August 2024
The Old Sparta to Kalamata Road, August 2024
o the Top of Monemvaisa-August 2024
Exploring Ancient Sparta-August 2024
Anthemion Suites and Villas, Greece-August 2024
A Bit of Charm in Nafplio, Greece-August 2024
Acronauplia Fortress-August 2024
Argos Theatre and Agora-August 2024
Exploring the Larissa Castle of Argos,Greece-August 2024
Snorkeling the Sunken City of Epidaurus. August 2024
Ancient Epidaurus: Birthplace of Modern Medicne August 2024
Mycenaean Bridge and Acropolis of Kazarma-August 2024
Ancient Nemea Greece-August 2026
Click the Links Below for more of my Greek Adventures
Discover more from Diary of a Gen-X Traveler
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.
So much history each step of the way! Eleusis is a part of Greece I’ve yet to visit, but it looks like you covered a lot of ground while visiting the many sites. Thanks for sharing 😊
It is easy to get to, not to far from
Athens. We covered a lot of area over the month we were here this year! Now if I can ever get it all blogged! 🤣