Self-Guided Tour to Pompeii, Italy

It was our second day in Italy on our 2023 trip and we had decided we were going to do a self-guided tour of Pompeii. I had taken a guided tour during of Pompeii in the spring of 2022 and felt with some research, we could do this ancient city on our own. All in all it turned out really well.

Planning

Planning and research isa big part of creating a self-guided Pompeii tour. I found an app called My Pompeii in my Apple Store for my I-phone. This is an official app for the ancient city of Pompeii and nicely covered most things I wanted to know. There is an in-depth description of each place that is open to visitors. Only some of the homes and ancient buildings are open to visitors each year. This site also has an easy to follow, well marked map. In addition, this app also has detailed routes and exhibits.

I also used an online site called Pompeii. You can find so much information on this site. I found a map that I printed. A couple of months before our trip, using this site, Steve and I planned which areas and sites we wanted to see and then marked them on the map. Once we had this to our liking, we made a plan how to effectively and efficiently see what we most wanted to see. This actually worked out even better than we had planned.

History

Pompeii, Italy is an ancient city that dates back to the 9th or 8th century BC founded most likely by the Oscan’s from Northern Italy. In 89 BC, Pompeii came under Roman Rule. At this time, the Latin language and Roman culture became the norm.

In 62 AD an earthquake damaged Pompeii and also the nearby city of Herculaneum causing significant damage. Before the town was able to recover, Mt Vesuvius erupted and created the infamous volcanic disaster which the city is known for. Reports state that around noon on August 24, 79 AD the volcano erupted spilling ash up to 9 feet deep over the city. The next morning, more debris from the eruption, along with toxic gases and also ash, continued to bury the city to an extent of 19-23 feet. This kept the city intact for many centuries. Excavations did not begin in Pompeii until 1748. For more history on Pompeii you can follow this link to Britannica.

Entering Pompeii

One of the first, and in my opinion, most important part of a self-guided tour to Pompeii is to have a plan and stick to it. There are nine regions in the ancient city of Pompeii making it easier to explore. As I have said, we had decided ahead of time which areas we wanted to see and what would be the best and most efficient way to visit.

We entered just after opening at the main entrance. After entering Pompeii on the left you will see the Terme Suburbane (Roman Baths). Tour groups enter just to the right through the town entry at Porta Marina. Instead of entering here, we entered further to the right. If you look towards the right, you will see another walkway into the town. Don’t follow the ramp but stay on the sidewalk to the right of the ramp. Unlike the main walkway into the town, which had a long and slow line, this walkway had very few people and no line.

We by-passed Regions VII and VIII and started in Region 1. Our goal was to reach the Amphitheater in Region II before it became busy and then we would backtrack to the Regions we passed in the hopes that they would be less busy on our way out. The plan actually worked quite well for us.

House of Casca Longus

We passed the back of the Basilica and on to the once prosperous street of Via Dell’ Abbondanza (the street of abundance) and then to Region 1. Region 1 is where we started our Pompeii self-guided tour. We walked down the almost empty street past the Terme Stabiane (Roman Baths), to the House of Casca Longus.

We explored Casa di Casca Longus which dates back to the year 2 BC. This was actually two homes that were quite elegant with elaborate paintings and a marble bath. The original owner, Publius Sevilious Casca Longus was well known as one of the men who conspired to have Julius Caesar killed. I thought the highlight of this home was the beautiful view from one of the atriums.

Fullonica di Stephanus

Next we visited the Fullery of Stephanus. A man by the name of Stephanus is presumed to have owned this fullery and it is said that he died in 79 AD during the infamous eruption. On his remains were many coins, leading to the presumption he was likely was attempting to escape the disaster. This was a place to do laundry. An ancient laundromat! The large tub in the center provided an area to wash the clothing. Items were laid out to dry on the upper terraces and in the garden. Slaves did the laundry. Instead of laundry detergent, it is said that human and also animal urine were used to clean the garments . In addition, the slaves would stomp on the clothing.

Casa e Thermopolium di Vetutius Placides

This next building was a house and also a place where you could buy food, drink, and hear the news. A social meeting place for sure. The house was built in the back, behind the thermopolium. The thermopolium faced the street. The large jars in the counter, visible from the street, showcased what was on the menu. Found during excavation was a jar of coins. 6.6 lbs worth of money most likely from the restaurants earnings. We saw many thermopolium’s throughout or visit.

Casa de Frutteto

Continuing on, we visited the Casa del Frutteto, House of the Orchard. Named so because of the beautiful painting of elaborate gardens. This home, built in the 3rd century BC, is considered one of the most beautiful homes on this street. It is presumed to have been owned by a winemaker as many wine making utensils were found here.

Casa di Octavius Quarto

This house, owned by Decimus Octavious Quarto, is also known as the House of Loreio Tiburtino and built around the 3rd century BC. Erroneously named after Loreio Tiburtino, a local politician who had ads on the wall saying ‘Vote for Loreioi’ and “Vote for Tiburtino. The house is asmall villa typical of the type which housed the Pompeii elite of that era. It has large gardens and finely painted walls.

Antifeatro

We continued through the streets of Pompeii on our self-guided tour. Few visitors were in the areas we choose to visit first which really made us happy. Next stop was the Antifeatro or Amphitheater.

The Amphitheater of Pompeii is quite grand and was built in 70 BC. It is one of the oldest, well preserved of its kind. In addition, it is made of stone which is unusual for the time period. The lower level of entrance was for the elite of the city as they sat closer to the arena. The amphitheater had many uses including circus shows, chariot races, animal hunts and gladiator battles.

In one area of the tunnels, which surround the amphitheater. there is a dedication to Pink Floyd. In 1972 Pink Floyd filmed a concert at Pompeii amphitheater but without an audience. Definitely did not expect to see that!

Necropoli di Porta Nocera

The Necropolis di Porta Nocera is the Necropolis , or cemetery by the Nocera gate. The area is outside the walls of Ancient Pompeii. When we left the area we re-entered the city through the Porta Nocera.

Garden of the Fugitives

While planning our self guided tour we knew one site in Pompeii we did not want to miss was the Garden of the Fugitives. This site houses 13 casts of victims from the Mt Vesuvius eruption. The victims are to from two families. A merchant family and a farm family. In addition there is a servant. A cast of a victim is produced by pouring plaster in the void left in the layers from the volcano where a body has disintegrated. The plaster hardens into the shape of the person.

Quadriporticus di Teatros

This ruin is actually located behind the Grand Theater. Originally used as a place where people could go to converse and rest between theater shows. The spectators could leisurely walk through the 74 columns and socialize. Later it became a barracks for the gladiators.

Teatro Piccolo

The Teatro Piccolo, also known as the Odeon or small theater, was built around 79 BC. Performances included music, singing, and miming.

Teatro Grande

The Teatro Grande, (Large Theatre) was built mid 2nd century, BC. Built in a hillside it was quite grand in its day and could seat up to 5000 people. Performances included plays, dances, musical shows and gladiator games.

Foro

The Foro of Pompeii is the city Forum. This is the heart of the city and played a big part of daily life. Here is where both government and personal business was performed, justice was carried out, people traded and bartered their goods, and also where people worshipped. The area is huge and there is so much to see.

Back to the Beginning

After the Forum, we had covered all of our planned areas. We decided it was time to get some lunch so walked back to the beginning. Our Pompeii self-guided tour took us just under three hours and per my Fitbit 10,784 steps. You can see the areas we covered on the map below. All in all this worked really well for us.

Map of our Pompeii Self-Guided Tour

Lunch Time

Having been to Pompeii last year, I knew there was a pizza place within walking distance from the Pompeii entrance. I was able to locate it again so we enjoyed pizza at Shaval. As a matter of fact, it was just as good as I remembered.

Conclusion

In conclusion I can say Pompeii is absolutely amazing! Although I have had a tour of Pompeii in the past, I really enjoyed our self-guided exploration more. After a lot of research and planning it all came together to create a perfect Pompeii experience for us.

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Click below for more from my Italy 2023 trip.

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