We love hiking and enjoyed another adventurous hike during our September 2023 Greece trip from Loutro Crete to Marmara Beach. This was one of my favorite days of this trip. We had not intended to hike this far, nor climb so much, but the day was beautiful and we just kept going. What was really memorable about this day, is we felt the authentic Crete vibe. Everything we love about Crete. A boat ride, small villages, ruins, a coastal hike with scrambling, swimming in the sea and ending the night with amazing Greek food up in the mountains. We had a great sampling of Crete in just one day!
Breakfast
We again had breakfast at Sfakia near where we were staying. As far as I am concerned all great days start with a great breakfast and nothing beats a Greek yogurt with honey and walnuts, cup of coffee, and an orange juice. It is even better with a sea view.
Ferry Ride to Loutro
After breakfast we walked to the port and caught a ferry to the small village of Loutro. It was a beautiful day and we were all smiles as we left the port and enjoyed our ferry ride.
Loutro can only be reached by sea or by foot and we choose by sea as we planned to hike the other side of Loutro. Loutro is a lovely little village and not many people were there this early in the morning. After wandering just a bit we decided we would hike first and then see more of Loutro when we returned.
Finding the Koules of Loutro
We do like exploring the different ruins in Crete and we knew we wanted to check out this one in Loutro before hiking towards Marmara Beach.There was no sign in the village where to begin the hike but since I had GPS coverage we decided to follow Google. Although this is not always the best way to find a hiking trail, it worked. Although later on during this trip, Google failed us terribly more than once!
We followed Google to a narrow alley and through what may have been residential apartments. Shortly we were out of the village and followed a narrow dirt path to steps going up a hill. My GPS was no longer working but this looked like it led to somewhere, so we hiked up the steps which led to a beautiful viewpoint looking down on Loutro. We continued up the steps, let ourselves through a gate, found another viewpoint, and just up the hill we saw the fortress.
Koules of Loutro
The Koules of Loutro is another Turkish Fortress which was built in 1868. More recently, the Koules was used as a school after Crete was freed from Ottoman rule and into the middle of the 20th century.
The fortress was fun to explore but we had to be quite careful as there were loose rocks and stones all over. We walked towards the end of the peninsula near the Archeological Area of Ancient Phoenix. We did not go and explore this area as we had other places we wanted to see. Phoenix was the name for two different towns on the south coast of ancient Crete. This particular town is mentioned in The Acts of the Apostles. When the Apostle Paul was held prisoner, the ship he was on planned to dock and spend the winter here. A storm came up and they could not sail into the strong winds which prevented the ship from arriving in Phoenix. (Acts27:12-16)
Finika
We decided to continue our hike. We were thinking of hiking to Marmara Beach but we weren’t sure if we could get there by walking so decided we would check it out. The path was dirt with some loose rock but it was not difficult to hike so we kept on going. The next spot we noticed was the little village of Finika. It was postcard perfect. We did not go into the village but instead passed by it from above.
As we kept walking the area was looking familiar. This was where we had driven to from the mountains the day before! We saw the mountain village of Livaniana above us and the Lykos Beach below us. In addition there was a sign pointing us to Marmara Beach which was reassuring we would be able to hike there. We continued on to Lykos Beach where we found our trail.
Definitely Not Love at First Sight
I took one look at the cliff we had to climb to reach Marmara Beach and said, “No Way.” Steve was all in but made sure I knew it would be my call as he wasn’t going to talk me into it. There was a reason we saw so many goats in the area and no people. The climb looked very steep up the sharp rocks of the cliff. I looked up again and said, “Well maybe. It probably flattens out at top”. One last time I looked up again and told Steve, “Ok, let’s get this done.” I did insist on being first though as I rationalized if I fell maybe he would catch me?
A Very Challenging Hike to Marmara Beach
So, all in all, this hike/climb was pretty challenging. Up until now, the hike from Loutro to Marmara Beach was easy and just an easy walk through Crete. The cliff is made up of jagged rocks which looked as if steps had been carved out of them. I scampered up, without looking back until I reached what I thought was the top expecting it to flatten out. It wasn’t the top and it didn’t flatten out. Looking ahead did not look much better, although the climb wasn’t as steep, but I no longer saw an apparent path. My first instinct was to turn around but I thought going down the way I just came up would be worse, so off we went.
The path continued to be rocky and very challenging. There were red paint marks on the rocks and I just followed those hoping it was the path! We were pretty high up and continued to use the jagged rocks on the cliff as steps. We came to an area that looked like a cave so I sat and took a breath, wondering what I got myself into. On the other hand, I do love these types of hikes and looking around admired the view, this was really a beautiful hike.
Thinking we had been hiking for miles, I was shocked when I looked back and saw how close Lykos Beach was! Up we went again on the jagged steps for the last time. The path suddenly became smoother and right below us was Marmara Beach. We made it!
Marmara Beach
Marmara Beach was wonderful. First things first, we found a place to sit, then we went for a swim! The water was wonderful although a bit rough. We swam close to shore as did the few others that were there. Unfortunately the water was too rough to swim into the caves but we didn’t mind. We made it here and we love swimming in the sea! After our swim, Steve continued to explore the other side of the beach while I read a book. Marmara beach was typical of many beaches we have been to in Crete, although the hike from Loutro was one of the more challenging hikes.
Back to Loutro
After a couple of hours we caught a small boat back to Loutro. The water was quite rough for what we have experienced in Crete although we were grateful we did not have to hike back from Marmara Beach to Loutro! Once at Loutro, instead of exploring the village as we had planned, we had a dilemma. The ferry we had tickets for back to Sfakia had stopped running for the day because of the rough water. The dock was swarming with people trying to get on the last ferry of the day for which we didn’t have tickets.
At this point, we decided to prepare ourselves for the hike back to Loutro when Steve saw a sign for a water taxi. I called the number and the gentleman told me he had room if we were ready to go in 10 minutes. He said he would not wait. With much gratitude, we literally jumped on when he pulled up, as it was hard to keep the boat at the dock due to the turbulent water. I felt bad for all the people left on the dock although we heard later that another ferry came before dark and was able to get everyone back to Sfakia. The ride back was so rough but actually a lot of fun! We were soaked but so happy we were able to catch the water taxi and not have to walk the 4 miles back to our hotel!
Dinner at Platanos in Anopoli
Once back to Sfakia and after cleaning up, we were starving. We decided to take the serpentine road back up to Anopoli and eat at Platanos Taverna. As it was highly recommended we wanted to try it out. We were so glad we did. Platanos was amazing. The food was fantastic and the service as well. The restaurant grows and raises most of it’s own food.
We met the cook and owner, Eva, who told us even the cheese on the Greek Salad was made here, by her son. Her son also has bee hives and sold honey so we bought some to take back home. The food here was beyond amazing and the taverna was a perfect place for us to relax after our big day. Steve had Moussaka which was wonderful. I can’t remember the name of what I had but it was so good. Zucchini hollowed out and filled with sausage, mint, rice and covered with a delicious sauce with a hint of nutmeg. I have never had anything like this before and would love the recipe!! Complimentary dessert was homemade chocolate cake with homemade ice cream! Amazing. After dinner it was back down the curvy mountain road and time for bed! What a wonderful day!
Conclusion
All in all, this was a fantastic day, although it had a couple of snags I would do it again. We found out it was possible to hike from Loutro to Marmara Beach in Crete, but then again, we could have taken a boat! In all seriousness though, both of us love the challenge of this type of hike and it makes the destination so much more rewarding. We both love Crete and even though this area was new for us we really enjoyed it. There’s something about the remoteness and harshness of this area that makes it so beautiful.
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You can also read more of my posts from my Greece Trips by clicking on the following links!!
2023 Trip
Anopolis, Arradena Bridge and Lykos Beach in Southen Crete-Sept 2023
Aptera Crete, Closed on Tuesdays Sept 2023
Return to Chania, Crete September 2023
2022 Trip
Our Favorite Restaurants, Plaka and Athens 2022
Santorini by Dune Buggy Part 3 2022
Off the Beaten Path Tour Santorini, Sept 2022
Delfino Blu Hotel, Corfu, Sept 2022
Shopping in Old Town Corfu, Sept 2022
Exploring Old Town Corfu, Sept 2022
To the Top of Angelokastro, Sept 2022
NW Coast of Corfu by boat, Sept 2022
Exploring the Beaches of NW Corfu, Sept 2022
Hike to Giali Beach, Corfu Sept 2022
E-Bike Tour of Meteora, Greece Sept 2022
Hike to Ypapanti Monastery, Greece Sept 2022
Ancient Delphi, Greece Sept 2022
Crete 2021
Ancient City of Lato, Sept 2021
Aforesmenos Lighthouse, Crete, Sept 2021
Avli Lounge Hotel, Rethymno, Sept 2021
Matala Beach Caves, Crete, Sept 2021
Hike to Martsalos Beach, Sept 2021
The Chapel at Georgioupoli, Sept 2021
Koutalas Beach and Sea Cave, Sept 2021
A Walk Through Chania, Sept 2021
Crete 2019
Elounda Peninsula Hotel, Sept 2019
Knossos Palace, Crete Sept 2019
Seitan Limania Beach, Sept 2019
Katholiko Monastery, Sept 2019
What a lovely read about your adventurous day! I was almost there with you, although that jagged rock face would have been too much for me!
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Thank you! It was really a day to remember. I love this part of Crete!
Lovely words about the rugged terrain and magic of the area around Loutro. I’ve scampered over all those rocky shepherd paths many times over the past 50+ years, when Loutro was not much more than Lykos, Lykos didn’t exist and the shepherd’s village of Livaniana had no road and hummed with life as it had existed for hundreds of years. I was there in September as well, no longer scampering, but drawn back many times to walk the ancient area looking for wisps of the old, simple and rugged lifestyle. The area encircles your heart and never lets go. Thanks for sharing your appreciation for it.
I’m glad you enjoyed this. I would have loved to see this are years ago! We fell in love with Crete in 2019 and this was our third trip here but first time to Sfakia. Hoping to return as Crete seems to pull at our soul! This area especially! Thank you for commenting!!
I’m so glad you were able to finish that terrifying rocky hike, Lori! Oh my gosh, you are brave, my friend. Everything else about your day looks amazing though, especially the Koules of Loutro, the gorgeous views, and that chocolate cake!
I am not sure if I am brave or crazy! It was such a wonderful day though I would do it again!
I think you’re brave!
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Wow! That hike to Mamara Beach does not look fun! I would’ve just turned back immediately, haha…but you pushed through, and it was well-worth it in the end (food included)! Thanks for sharing another wonderful time in Crete. 🙂
The food was indeed wonderful! We had worked up quite an appetite!
Looks like a great hike! Crete is on my must see list
It was beautiful! You would love Crete!! So much to see and do and fantastic hikes! If you go send me a message if you have any questions or need some information!
Wow, you are so brave to continue on that scary trail🙂 Glad your trip ended up nicely, what a wonderful day!
Ended up loving it even though I was totally anxious about it!
You two always like working up an appetite don’t you? Rugged hike. Nice scenery. I could probably spend days trying to photograph ruins and not be so disciplined in getting to places.
Well we always like to eat so try burning the potential calories first. There are so many ruins in Crete and they are all beautiful!
That looks super challenging – the drinks and food were well deserved!
It was a challenge but it felt like a great accomplishment when I was done!
Good on you for tackling this hike Lori. Patty and I often wonder how we get ourselves into some situations. Like they say, Old Enough to Know Better, but Young Enough to Do it Again. Love the look of the area and all that delicious food. Happy Saturday. Allan
I so agree Allan, we too are old enough to know better….I certainly am glad we didn’t miss out on this one! Have a great weekend!! Lori