During our September 2023 trip to Crete, Greece, we looked forward to a swim to the Kourtaliotiko Falls. This was on our bucket list since we were in the area in 2019 and hiked down the Kourtaliotiko Gorge to view the falls from above. At that time, the falls were inaccessible from below due to a storm a few days before we visited. Nonetheless, we said we would be back and this year we returned. We explored the falls and canyons ourselves but you can also join a Viator trip to discover the falls such as this one with snorkeling.
*As of 2025 I have heard conflicting reports whether it is banned to swim in the falls or not. When in Crete in Sept 2025 we asked several locals from Crete and they all said they have not heard that swimming is banned but they did not live in the Kourtaliotiko Falls area.*
Leaving Chora Sfakia
Early in the morning, after breakfast, we packed up and said good-bye to Chora Sfakia. We were sad to be leaving an area we had enjoyed so much but we were also excited to be on our way to our next adventures.
Frangokastello
On our way to swim to Kourtaliotiko falls, we stopped at Frangokastello, another fortress in Crete. Unfortunately, Frangokastello was undergoing restoration efforts so we could not go in. We did however get to walk around the outside and snap some photos.
Frangokastello Fortress is located along Frangokastello beach. The Venetians built the Fortress during the years of 1371-1374. The locals were not fond of this fortress and named it Frangokastello meaning Castle of the Franks (foreigners). There is a story that soldier’s ghosts continue to haunt this area. It is believed, in May of each year, Cretan soldiers massacred here by the Turks, come up from the beach and walk towards the fort. You can read about this legend here.
Kourtaliotiko Falls
We continued our drive to Kourtaliotiko Falls, it was a scenic drive as we left the sea and drove towards the mountains of Crete, excited for our long awaited swim. We recognized the area immediately and knew exactly where to park. You will see cars parked along the road before you see the entry. You will find two arched entry’s about a mile from each other. If driving north, to hike to the bottom of the falls you should start at the first arched entry. If your plan is to first see Saint Nicholas chapel and also the top of the falls, start at the second arch entry. Although, if you want to do both, you can start at either entry.
The Kourtaliotiko Falls is located at the bottom of the Kourtaliotiko Gorge. This gorge is carved out by the Megalos River flowing between Kouroupa Mountain and also Xiron Mountain. The gorge is quite rugged with cliffs that reach a height of 300 meters and is 2.5 km (1.55 m) long. You can also follow the river all the way to the Palm Forest at Preveli Beach ending up at the Libyan Sea.
After passing through the arched entry you will climb down many steps to get to the falls. Remember, to get back you have to climb up them! The path is rocky and mostly rock steps. Although it is not difficult, careful footing is needed. At one point there is a choice of going left to the Church and the top of the falls, or to go right towards the river. We of course continued the multitude of steps to the river. The gorge, although barren has its own beauty and is worth the hike in itself.
The River
We reached the river as the path flattened out and continued towards the falls. As we came closer, we could hear many people and also the splashing of the falls.
The Falls
At the end of the trail is an area with lots of boulders and also a turquoise crystal clear pool. You can see where the gorge narrows and the river continues to the falls although you cannot see the falls from here. To reach Kourtaliotiko Falls you have to swim through the narrow opening of deep water. Well, the water at the opening is too deep to stand in. Steve and I were both pumped for this! We noticed immediately though, out of the many people there, only a few were in the water and even less were swimming to the falls. We heard it was cold, but being the weather was so hot we figured it would feel awesome to get in the water.
The water was more than cold, it was absolutely freezing. Slowly I made it in about chest high but that is all I could do. I debated with myself to swim to the falls. I rationalized we drove all this way just to hit this goal! But in the end, fear won out. I was so afraid of my legs cramping up and therfore I decided not to do it. I consider myself a good swimmer but freezing river water that I couldn’t stand in was a first for me. On the other hand, Steve was going no matter what. He dunked under the water to prepare himself and off he went holding on tight to our waterproof camera while I just stood shivering in the river.
He took some great photos and said it was amazing!
Back to the Top
Once out of the water, we dried off and back up the steps we went to the top. I was feeling a bit sad since I did not achieve this goal, but at least I did get in the water! Once back to the car, we headed to Preveli Beach for more hiking and swimming.
Location
Conclusion
Although I ended up disappointing myself, I still enjoyed this adventure in Crete and loved watching Steve swim to Kourtaliotiko Falls. I am glad one of us achieved this goal. In retrospect, I should have done it because now I want to go back and give it a try! We had planned on returning here during our September 2025 trip but have decided not to due to the swimming ban.
Diary of a Gen-X Traveler recommendations for hotels, restaurants, and tours are based on our own experiences. We do not receive compensation for recommending any of these nor are we affiliates of any hotels, restaurants, or tour companies. The only places/experiences we recommend are places we have personally been to and experienced.
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You can also read more of my posts from my Greece Trips by clicking on the following links!!
2023 Trip
Boating on the South Central Sea in Crete-Sept 2023
A Challenging hike Loutro to Marmara Beach, Crete-Sept 2023
Anopolis, Arradena Bridge and Lykos Beach in Southen Crete-Sept 2023
Aptera Crete, Closed on Tuesdays Sept 2023
Return to Chania, Crete September 2023
2022 Trip
Our Favorite Restaurants, Plaka and Athens 2022
Santorini by Dune Buggy Part 3 2022
Off the Beaten Path Tour Santorini, Sept 2022
Delfino Blu Hotel, Corfu, Sept 2022
Shopping in Old Town Corfu, Sept 2022
Exploring Old Town Corfu, Sept 2022
To the Top of Angelokastro, Sept 2022
NW Coast of Corfu by boat, Sept 2022
Exploring the Beaches of NW Corfu, Sept 2022
Hike to Giali Beach, Corfu Sept 2022
E-Bike Tour of Meteora, Greece Sept 2022
Hike to Ypapanti Monastery, Greece Sept 2022
Ancient Delphi, Greece Sept 2022
Crete 2021
Ancient City of Lato, Sept 2021
Aforesmenos Lighthouse, Crete, Sept 2021
Avli Lounge Hotel, Rethymno, Sept 2021
Matala Beach Caves, Crete, Sept 2021
Hike to Martsalos Beach, Sept 2021
The Chapel at Georgioupoli, Sept 2021
Koutalas Beach and Sea Cave, Sept 2021
A Walk Through Chania, Sept 2021
Crete 2019
Elounda Peninsula Hotel, Sept 2019
Knossos Palace, Crete Sept 2019
Seitan Limania Beach, Sept 2019
Katholiko Monastery, Sept 2019
Itineraries
10 Day Greece Itinerary, Sept 2019
8 Day Greece Itinerary, Sept 2018