There is a lot to see in South Central Crete and exploring it by sea is a great way to enjoy the area. During our September 2023 trip to Crete we decided to rent a boat while in Chora Sfakia. Having rented a boat in 2022 in Corfu, we knew it would be a blast and we were excited to do this again.
Renting the Boat
Once again we started our day with coffee, juice and yogurt topped with honey. Feeling fabulous, we followed the road to the harbor. Here we easily found Notos Mare, from whom we rented our boat. Notos Mare came highly recommended to me and in addition, the reviews online were great. Prior to our trip we were able to easily reserve the boat on line. In fact, we were very happy with this company. They were professional, gave thorough instructions, mapped out the many beaches for us, and also answered all of our questions. The small boat was a perfect size for us and also neither of us have a boat license so it was the most powerful we could rent. I highly recommend this company and Chora Sfakia is a perfect place to start exploring South Central Crete by Sea.
Over the Sea
We took off all smiles and giggles. We were very excited for this adventure. It was late morning but already the sun was hot and we couldn’t wait to go for a swim. We passed by the places we had hiked the day before and continued along the water. The staff at Notos Mare suggested we boat as far east as we were allowed to go on the sea then take our time exploring the beaches of South Central Crete while heading back.
Domata Beach
Domata Beach was our first stop and it was beautiful. Not only were we the only boat there, we were the only people there! Our own private beach! After anchoring we swam to shore and walked along the beach. There was a rocky area to explore, which we did and we relaxed just sitting on the shore letting the water splash us. Total serenity. We spent quite a bit of time here as it was so peaceful. We never saw another soul, not even a goat!
Agia Roumeli
Our next stop was Agia Roumeli. This little village is famous for the gorge behind it. Those hiking the Samaria Gorge end up at Agia Roumeli and hop on a water taxi to Chora Sfakia where they bus back to their origin. Samaria Gorge is 16 km and the longest gorge in Europe, therefore it draws hikers from all over. Unfortunately, we could not hike the gorge due to a rock slide injuring a hiker during an earthquake earlier in August. There were still fears of aftershocks and landslides.
We had planned to wander around Agia Roumeli and also buy some sunscreen, as we forgot ours at the hotel. Unfortunately, Steve couldn’t get the boat docked, which is quite a humorous story in itself. Well, at least I think it is funny and I may blog a short story about it at another time.
Being in desperate need of some sunscreen, I jumped off the boat, on to the dock and quickly went in search of some sun protection. Returning to the dock with my purchase, I saw no sign of Steve or the boat. Just before panic set in, I noticed he was out at sea, as he couldn’t dock and didn’t want to be in the way if another boat came in. He quickly came to retrieve me.
I found out jumping into a moving boat was not as easy or as fun as jumping out, especially when the boat couldn’t be held still. My other option was for him to anchor it and me swim to the boat, which did not seem feasible with sunscreen, billfold, and iphone in hand. Patiently I waited for an opportune time and successfully jumped into the boat. All in all this was a lot of work for a 57 year old woman just for a bottle of sunscreen!
Agios Pavlos Church
After slathering ourselves with sunscreen we were off again. Even as we breezed across the water it was so very hot. Our next stop was a place I really was excited to see; Agios Pavlos Church on Agios Pavlos Beach. This little church of Saint Paul is a Greek Orthodox Byzantine church which dates back to the 10th century AD. The apostle Saint Paul baptized many faithful in this area while he was traveling to Rome. Therefore, the church is dedicated to him. This stone church sits on the beach and it is said to have been built from stones from the beach and surrounding area. Inside, faint frescoes adorn parts of the ceiling and walls.
Steve once again anchored the boat and we swam to shore. The swim felt so good as it was becoming very hot out, although we noticed the water was getting a bit rougher. Exploring the church was amazing and just thinking about how long this church has been here, along with Saint Paul, the Apostle having baptized people on this beach was a lot to take in. We noticed a hiking path behind the church and into the hills that we were tempted to follow but it was just so hot we decided to swim back towards the boat and just spend some time in the water.
The Ride Back
After enjoying our swim, we headed towards Marmara Beach where we had hiked the day before. We wanted to swim in the caves. Again, luck was not on our side as the sea was becoming much more rough. Although we saw two people swimming in and out off the caves, other boaters were either at the beach or restaurant. Since we know our limitations and we were at Marmara Beach the day before, we passed on by. Eager to get back in the water though, we anchored in front of another beach and just swam and floated near our boat for quite awhile. It was total heaven.
After our swim we debated on stopping at Loutro, where we started our hike the day before. We decided not to as it was already late afternoon and we were hot, tired and hungry!
Back at Chora Sfakia, we returned our boat, went back to our hotel to clean up and then headed for dinner.
Where We Ate
Dinner was again at Platanos Taverna in Anopoli. We enjoyed this taverna so much the night before that we again drove the serpentine road up the mountain to Anopoli. Dinner did not disappoint. Again we enjoyed Eva’s wonderful traditional cooking. The Greek Salad with homemade cheese was among our selections along with beef Stifaldo (stew) and Soutzoukakia (Greek meatballs in tomato sauce). The small onions in the Stifaldo were so good. I had never tasted an onion like this before, it was sweet and just about melted in my mouth.
After dinner we were served complimentary cake which was also very good. I can’t recall the name of it but would definitely eat it again! Eva, sat down with us for a bit and talked about reek cooking! It was really a great evening regardless of the fact we would be leaving the area in the morning. Although we will return to Crete in 2025 and I am already trying to figure out a way to return to Anopoli so I can eat here again and in addition, buy more of their honey! Plus I would love to explore more of South Central Crete both by land and sea.
Conclusion
Although we were exhausted by the end of the day, we were very content. This was such a great day. Exploring South Central Crete by sea is absolutely a must do if you enjoy swimming and boating. We definitely fell in love with this area both land and the sea. If you enjoy quiet authentic Greece and also like adventure, Sfakia in Crete is for you!
If you like water adventures there are other options in this area such as Sea Kayaking through Viator. We are thinking of checking this out when we visit in 2025. Also if you are a Viator member and prefer to rent a boat through them you can do so by clicking here. And if you area a GetYourGuide member they also have boat rental in Sfakia at this link. GetYourGuide also offers a fishing trip on their platform.
The Gen-X Travels recommendations for hotels, restaurants, activities or tour companies are based on our own experiences unless noted. We are not sponsored by any business or company and all trips are at our expense. All photos are by myself or my husband unless otherwise noted. We are affiliates of some companies such as Amazon,Viator, and others which we do receive a small commission from, at no cost to you if you buy or book through one of our links.
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You can also read more of my posts from my Greece Trips by clicking on the following links!!
2023 Trip
A Challenging hike Loutro to Marmara Beach, Crete-Sept 2023
Anopolis, Arradena Bridge and Lykos Beach in Southen Crete-Sept 2023
Aptera Crete, Closed on Tuesdays Sept 2023
Return to Chania, Crete September 2023
2022 Trip
Our Favorite Restaurants, Plaka and Athens 2022
Santorini by Dune Buggy Part 3 2022
Off the Beaten Path Tour Santorini, Sept 2022
Delfino Blu Hotel, Corfu, Sept 2022
Shopping in Old Town Corfu, Sept 2022
Exploring Old Town Corfu, Sept 2022
To the Top of Angelokastro, Sept 2022
NW Coast of Corfu by boat, Sept 2022
Exploring the Beaches of NW Corfu, Sept 2022
Hike to Giali Beach, Corfu Sept 2022
E-Bike Tour of Meteora, Greece Sept 2022
Hike to Ypapanti Monastery, Greece Sept 2022
Ancient Delphi, Greece Sept 2022
Crete 2021
Ancient City of Lato, Sept 2021
Aforesmenos Lighthouse, Crete, Sept 2021
Avli Lounge Hotel, Rethymno, Sept 2021
Matala Beach Caves, Crete, Sept 2021
Hike to Martsalos Beach, Sept 2021
The Chapel at Georgioupoli, Sept 2021
Koutalas Beach and Sea Cave, Sept 2021
A Walk Through Chania, Sept 2021
Crete 2019
Elounda Peninsula Hotel, Sept 2019
Knossos Palace, Crete Sept 2019
Seitan Limania Beach, Sept 2019
Katholiko Monastery, Sept 2019
Itineraries
10 Day Greece Itinerary, Sept 2019
8 Day Greece Itinerary, Sept 2018