Exploring the Gortyna Archaeological Site in Crete : Diary of a Gen-X Traveler

Gortyna Archaeological Site is another site which has long been on our list of “to do’s” in Crete. We visited here during our September 2025 trip to Greece. Although a large area was blocked off due to ongoing excavations, we did thoroughly enjoy what we were able to visit.

We visited Gortyna Archaeological Site on our own. Tour companies such as Viator combine the site of Phaistos and include other places on Crete during their tours. You can check these out by clicking here. Although we have not personally experienced this tour we have enjoyed other tours from Viator.

Location

Gortyna Archaeological Site is about a 40 minute drive 45 km (28 m) south of Heraklion in Crete.

History

Gortyn, Crete dates back to the Neolithic Era (700-3200BC). Gortyna thrived during the Hellenistic era (323-31BC). During part of the Roman occupation (67BC-827AD), Gortyna again thrived and was the capital of its own province in Crete. Built on the Messara Plain, close to the sea for trading purposes, but far enough inland for safety. The Massara Plain was ideal as it is a fertile area with lots of freshwater sources making it perfect for olive trees, farming, and also hunting. This area allowed Gortyna to be self sufficient yet still have access to the major trade routes of the time. Unfortunately, between 824 and 828AD, the Arabs conquered Gortyna destroying and reducing it to ruins.

Gortyn is well known for the Gortyn Law Code. This code is actually written on the walls behind the theater which you can still see today. Including laws for protecting property and protecting essential economic rights of women. Also included is a detailed 3 tier class system, (free citizens, laborers, and serfs/slaves). In addition there are laws addressing civil liberties with due process. If find this all very impressive, after all, this is quite forward thinking for these times.

Basilica of Agios Tito

The first place we came across is the lovely 6th century AD ruins of the Basilica of Agios Tito. And what a great first spot to see! This Christian Basilica was erected centuries before the Great Schism of the Church. Although the liturgy, style and architecture show the faithful were followers of what today is the Greek Orthodox Church.

This Basilica dedicated to St Titus who served his ministry in Gortyna. St Titus was appointed Bishop by St Paul in 65 AD, thereupon, becoming the first Bishop of Crete. St Titus was Greek born and also had the distinction of being one of St Pauls most trusted followers. He was also a peacemaker. Although some sources state St Titus was a marty, my research shows he died peacefully of old age in Gortyna. Be that as it may, there were several martyrs here in Gortyna. In 250 AD, ten Christians were martyred for their beliefs and known as The Ten Saints of Gortyna.

The Basiclia was a grand building in its day with a five aisle structure with each aisle divided by large marble columns. In addition, detailed frescoes adorned the walls, and a mosaic floor added to the glory. The Basilica also boasted a large central ornate dome which allowed natural lighting to accentuate the gilded sanctuary below. An open-aired atrium served as an entryway which would have allowed people to gather and also ocialize. Stepping into the ruins, it was fun to imagine how this magnificent basilica appeared in it’s grander.

The Roman Theater and Odeon

Another of the impressive ruins at Gortyna are the Roman Theater and the Odein. There are other theaters at the Gortyna site but we were unable to access them. This theater’s location is in the main archaeological site and is considered the best preserved in Gortyna and also the most structurally complete ancient musical venue in Crete. The Roman Theater is a small theater with a capacity of about 400-500 people. Featuring a raised stage and an orchestra area with a blue and white marble floor. It must have been magnificent in its day. I can imagine sitting in the cavea listening to ancient music, or maybe watching a performance. Both the theater and Odeon were constructed in the first century BC and updated around 100 AD.

What makes this stand out is the circular wall of passageways behind the theater with inscriptions of the Gortyn Code on the walls. (see next section). I really found it intretesting to walk through these passages, if only I could read the writings! In addition, this theater included a cover, allowing performances in any weather.

Gortyn Code of Law

As mentioned above, the Gortyn Code of Law is inscribed on the walls behind the theater seating. You can make out the faint symbols of Cretan Doric dialect. To read this writing, you must read each line back and forth. In other words, you read one line left to right and the next line right to left continuing to alternate until the end.

An interesting note; The stones with the Gortyn Code of Law date back to the 5th centruy BC. The builders dismantled the stones and used them to build the Odeon during the 1st century BC. The stones were originally located in a circular building in the Agora on a large wall making the laws available for anyone to read. The Odeon was constructed on top of the ruins of the public building and the stones with the Gortyn Law were reused. Looks like recycling and repurposing has been around for quite awhile.

State of a Sitting Man

Another point of interest is this uge marble statue of a man sitting. He is sitting on a traditional curule chair, which is a backless cushioned seat popular in Roman times. He is possibly an unknown scholar, ancient philosopher, or perhaps the Emperor Antoninus Pius. Dating back to the 1st-3rd century AD, although his likeness has endured overtime, it is a shame his identity has not. It makes me think of old unlabled family photos, the people look familiar but no one knows who they are!

Olive Tree

Among the ruins of Gortyna is an ancient olive tree grove which also spreads throughout the archaeological site, a not so uncommon site to see in Crete. One of the ancient trees is interestingly impressive as it encircles a Roman column! This particular tree is around 1600 years old! Furthermore, these ancient olive trees also served as great hiding places during the various wars as their massive hollowed out trunks gave refuge to many a resistance fighter or soldier.

Conclusion

All in all, this was another great site. The Basilica, Roman Theater, and Odeon were pretty cool. We could see other areas that looked like something but so much was fenced off we were not able to get close or could not specifically figure out what the area was as there was no signage. I was really disappointed we could not visit the Temple of Apollo across the road. We were told active digging was in progress. I find it exciting that excavation is still alive and well.