Next stop on our 2025 September trip to Greece was the peaceful island of Folegandros. This is another gem in the Cycladic group of islands. As much as we loved Ano Koufonisi Island, we loved the peaceful and mostly undeveloped Folegandros as well.
Locations
Getting Here
This is another island you can only access by ferry. It is a great spot to stop at while island hopping in the Cyclades. We prefer SeaJets and have always had a good experience with them.
First Impressions-The Port
As Folegandros appeared in the distance the closer we came, the more our excitement peeked. Walking off the ferry and onto the port we shared an excitement of knowing Folegandros was going to be another amazing Island in Greece. And we were right. This port, for being quite small and quiet still had a bit of a bustle about it as people came and left.
Getting Around
Even though this is not a large island, you will have to rent a car or take the local bus. We rented a car through Evo Rental Cars and could not have been more pleased. The Jimney was in great condition, service was prompt and professional, and the gentleman helping us had a plethora of information he shared about the island. Returning the vehicle was easy as well. In addition, Evo Rental Cars has their own parking lot which you can use to park in while visiting the Chora.
Folegandros Town
The Chora on Folegandros Island was much larger than we had expected. Although it is definitely not large, there’s quite a few places to eat, shop and even just hang out. Like Koufonisi Island, you can not drive in town, but you will find ample parking outside of the main town and its just a very short walk before you start to enjoy the charm that Chora has to offer. There are several churches on the island and quite a few are in town.
Folegandros Town sits on the edge of a cliff so the views are nothing short of spectacular. Although you would never know you are situated on a large cliff while you are walking along until you come closer to the edge. There are walls of course so no need to worry about slipping and falling off.
While hiking and swimming during the day the island seemed almost deserted. At night, the Chora came alive and was quite crowded. The vibe was fun and exciting with lots of shops, restaurants, and people ready to enjoy the night. As a matter of fact, just after sunset each night, it appeared all the restaurants were full and people were waiting for tables. We were truly amazed by this and wondered where all the people came from.
Panagia-Church of the Virgin Mary
It isn’t easy to reach the Panagia, or Church of the Virgin Mary. Like most places in Greece and the Greek Islands, many churches are built high on a hill and the only way to reach them is to walk up and the largest church on Folegandros, built high on a cliff above Chora is a magnificent climb. This church was built where an ancient temple once stood. The trek up was tough but absolutely worth it. Right before sunset people gather here for the spectacular view.
The Sunsets
The Sunsets in Folegandros were nothing short of amazing. It’s not just the view as the sun slowly disappears behind the horizon, but the hush of reverence that transcends throughout the area during this time that I will always remember.
We enjoyed watching the sunsets from bot the town and the Panagia.
The Castle
Built in 1215 to and like so many fortress on the Islands of Greece the Folgandros Castle was built to protect the island from pirates, This castle is built along the cliff and is the oldest part of Chora. The outer walls consist of houses in a row with no outside windows, as a matter of fact the only way to access these houses are from the inside of the castle which you could only reach through three narrow gates.
We really loved the looks of the houses all lined up. Truly charming and fun to walk through, especially as some of these houses are believed to be over 1000 years old.
Windmills
The windmills on Folegandros Island are from the 16th-19th centuries and typical of the windmills through the Cycladic Islands in Greece they were used to grind grain into flour. They were an important part of the history of the island as they provided the grains for many basic foods such as bread. Some were still in operation as late as the 1970’s. We stopped at the ones pictured below on our way to Chora one day.
Hiking from Agkali Beach to Agios Nikolaos Beach
There are several nice hiking paths on the island of Folegandros which showcase this beautiful Island, and like many islands in Greece, many of the trails lead to the sea. This is what we love. Hiking to the sea, swimming, hiking back and then enjoying a delicious Greek dinner! The hike to Agios Nikolaos beach is really a great short hike and there is lots to see on the way. We explored an old hut and some odd structures. If anyone knows what these are feel free to let me know! It was hot out so a refreshing swim along the way at Galifos Beach was perfect.
The path along the coast was very beautiful, careful footing was needed and I am glad I wore my trail shoes. Agios Nikolaos beach was a wonderful swim. The beautiful blue water is shallow for quite a way out which made for a lovely swim. The perfect way for us to enjoy Greece. For more detail about this hike check out my post, Hiking from Alkali Beach to Agios Nikolaos Beach.
Hike to Livadaki Beach and Aspropounta Lighthouse
The hike to Livadaki Beach was about 3 km (1.86 miles) with an additional 10 minutes to visit the lighthouse. It took us a little over an hour, but that being said, we took a lot of photos and stopped a lot as it was quite hot. The hike was easy enough at first but as you came closer to the coast there were some rough spots which I would rate as moderate based on my hiking experience. There were no scrambling, ropes or chains, but rocky terrain which required careful footing. If you factor in the heat and sun exposure, there is very scant shade, you could rate it as moderate-difficult. Nevertheless, this is a beautiful hike and we both enjoyed it.
There are no places to stop and get water or food on this hike or at the beach, consequently, make sure you bring plenty of food and water.
The water at the beach was lovely and we found a nice shady spot to make our home for a few hours. As a matter of fact, I took a nap while Steve explored the lighthouse.
More Beaches
Our last day exploring Folegandros was a beach day. We had a fabulous time driving to various beaches and going for a swim. We started by driving to the northern area of Folegandros. It is more remote but a beautiful drive.
Pigalia Ligaria
Our first stop was the beautiful, almost hidden cove of Liguria Beach. It was so peaceful and we were the only ones here! We enjoyed an amazing swim and after relaxing a bit jumped back in the Jimney and followed the road to our next swim.
Paralia Agios Georgios
Our next stop was Agios Georgios Beach. This was another great swim, although not at all crowded, there were more people here than we had thought there would be. I loved this beach not only because we enjoyed the swim but the houses and syrmata (boat storage buildings) add to the charm.
Ampeli Beach
We drove south to Ampeli Beach which is located in the north west area of Folegandros enjoying the views along the way. Another secluded beach with only a handful of people on the shore when we were here.
Livadi Beach
Our last stop was Livadi Beach as it is close to the port and we had a ferry to Milos to catch that afternoon. We didn’t swim here but enjoyed just relaxing.
Where We Ate
We ate at a couple of different places and our favorite was To Spitiko. This family owned restaurant has been run by the same family for several generations serving traditional Folagandros dishes from their family. We not only loved the food but the vibe as well. Everyone was so friendly and welcoming and we loved it so much we ate here twice. I know we should try different places when on vacation, but we know good Greek food when we eat it. So finding these gems we hate to take a chance elsewhere!
We ate goat here for the first time! Now I mean this as a compliment but my mother probably wouldn’t have taken it as such, but I thought the goat tasted like my mom’s roast beef she made so many years ago! Mom has been gone for 40 years but was a fantastic cook and baker.
We also stopped at a Bakery for Watermelon Pie. It was quite good and tasted like a berry crisp and kind of chewy.
Where We Stayed
We stayed at the Lemon Tree Houses and could not have been happier. Just outside of Ano Mara and a short distance from Chora we loved the quiet, peaceful atmosphere. Our host was outstanding and had many useful tips for us to the places we were visiting. Breakfast here was amazing and changed each day. We also enjoyed time relaxing at the pool with a couple of freddos from the bar. Our room was comfortable and very spacious with a nice patio both in front and in back of our place. I highly recommend staying here.
Conclusion
All in all we absolutely loved Folegandros! The quiet beauty of this island, the friendliness of the people here, and the traditional Greek vibe was everything we enjoy experiencing while traveling to Greece. While writing these posts on Folegandros, we hadn’t planned on returning this year, but after seeing all our memories and remembering how this lovely little island made us feel, we are again including it in our September 2026 trip to Greece. Both of us are very excited and we can’t wait to return to some favorite spots and find new ones!
Resources
If you enjoy hiking, here is a link to trails in Folegandros
Another good link for Folegandros is the you tube video from A Touch of Greece
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In Addition to this post about Folegandros Island, you can also check out my other posts from our 2025 trip to Greece and also previous years Itineraries by following these links!
Hike to Livadaki Beach at Folegandros, Sept 2025
Hike to Agios Nikolaos Beach at Folegandros Sept 2025
Delos Island; A comprehensive Self Guided Tour September 2025
Mykonos One Day Itinerary Sept 2025
Great Places to Eat in Plaka, Athens and Nearby. Updated Sept 2025
Self Guided Tour to Acropolis Sept 2025
Tower of the Wind, Athens Sept 2025
The Roman Forum in Athens, Sept 2025
National Archaeology Museum Athens, Sept 2025
8 Days in Greece, Athens, Milos,Santorini. Oct 2018
10 Days in Greece Athens ,Crete, Santorini Sept 2019
14 Days in Greece Crete, Naxos, Santorini, Athens Sept 2021
2 Weeks in Greece, Delphi, Meteora, Corfu, Santorini Sept 2022
10 Day Peloponnese Itinerary August/September 2024
The Gen-X Travels recommendations for hotels, restaurants, activities or tour companies are based on our own experiences unless noted. We are not sponsored by any business or company and all trips are at our expense. All photos are by myself or my husband unless otherwise noted. We are affiliates of some companies such as Amazon,Viator, and others which we do receive a small commission from, at no cost to you if you buy or book through one of our links.
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LOVED your photos!!! what a beautiful island.
Thank you! It is definitely a hidden gem of an island!
I’ll definitely have to visit.
It is a great island!
What a lovely trip. Looking forward to those temperatures again to be able to get out and enjoy a walk about. Got another winter storm rolling in with 50mph wind gusts. Brrrrrrrr……🥶🥶🥶🥶🥶🥶
That sounds awful!!! We are in North Carolina but will be in Iowa by Tuesday night. Hoping we have good weather as we will be driving. It would be just our luck to have our last days in Iowa battling a winter storm! Have a Happy New Year, Jerry!
I spent two days on Folegandros in 2023. I can confirm that the sunsets at the Panagia church are magnificent. Unlike Oia on Santorini, there are fewer people, and they aren’t frantic just to get a good spot!
Have you tried matsata, the island’s culinary specialty: pasta with tomato sauce and rooster meat?
Yes, so less crowded and laid back! I am diabetic so I keep away from pasta but my husband says he is going to try it next time so I’ll have a bite or two! It looks delicious! Where was your favorite place to eat on the island? We are returning in September so always looking for great spots to eat at.
I ate matsata at the Sinadisi restaurant in the village of Ano Meria, 6 km from Kastro. And I tasted a hot rakomelo (a mixture of raki and honey) at Kafé Kastro.
Thank you! We stayed at Lemon Tree Houses in Ano Maria so I know the location! Hot rakomelo is much better than plain RAKI in my opinion!
And if you happen to be passing through Corfu Island, I know a small restaurant in the mountains, in Strinilas, that serves hot tsipouro with cinnamon!
That sounds amazing! If we ever go to Corfu again I will check it out! This year in addition to Folegandros we are visiting Astypalea, Amorgos and Peloponnese. If you have suggestions I’m always open for great ideas! Have a happy New Year!!
I’m giving you the link to the first part of my trip to the Cyclades in 2023, where I went to the islands of Santorini, Amorgos, Folegandros and Milos. You have a “translation” function on the page.
https://bentectravels.com/les-cyclades-dile-en-ile-1ere-partie-de-santorin-a-milos-2023/
Thank you!
Wonderful photos. I visited the Greek islands last summer, and there is something special about those that are less visited. I was certainly mesmerised by the sunsets and the white and blue buildings in Greece.
Thank you! We love Greece and visit each fall. The less popular islands are definitely a treat to visit.