The History and Ruins of Ancient Messene, Greece

Ancient Messene is another archaeological site we couldn’t wait to see during our August 2024 trip to the Peloponnese in Greece. Located in a beautiful valley at the foot of Mt. Ithome, Ancient Messene, all in all is one of the most impressive sites I have seen in Greece. It is a bit out of the way so this site does not get as much traffic as the more well-known and popular sites. We did our own self-tour but you can also find a tour through Viator that works for you such as this one.

Location

History of Ancient Messene

The earliest inhabitants of Messenia were the Aeolian Greeks, established between the 5th and 4th century BC, and were the largest of the four Hellenic Tribes, which also included the Dorians, Achaeans, and Ionians. They spoke Aeolic, a local dialect of Ancient Greece.

In 720 BC, Sparta conquered Messenia after the First Messenian War, but the Messenians rebelled in 685 BC and resisted Spartan control for 17 years. In 464 BC, another rebellion occurred following a devastating earthquake, allowing the Messenians to defend themselves on Mt. Ithome. Ultimately, an agreement led to the exile of many Messenians, reestablishing Spartan rule.

In 371 BC, the Spartans were defeated by Greek General Epaminondas, who helped free the Messenians and invited those in Italy, Sicily, and Africa to return. In 369 BC, Ancient Messene was founded by these returning Messenians. They built a large city with walls, a theater for 12,000, temples, a gym, a fresh water spring, baths, and a main marketplace. The city had impressive buildings with statues, columns, and mosaic floors, making Ancient Messene one of the most notable cities in Greece at the time, even said to be larger than Athens.

While exploring Ancient Messene, you will also find Roman influence as they ruled the area in 146 BC and all of Greece as well.

Unfortunately by the 4th century Messene was destroyed and abandoned. The cause of the fall of Ancient Messene may have been from compound reasons. The Cretan earthquake of 365 AD damaged and destroyed many buildings. Also in 395 AD, the Goths invaded and destroyed much in its pathway;

Our Self Tour of Ancient Messene

After our long drive it felt good to get out of the car and stretch our legs Although very hot, the day was beautiful. Once entering Ancient Messene we were amazed at this beautiful hidden gem in Greece! The once magnificent ancient city spread out before us, surrounded by the mountains, the city appeared to cover the entire green valley. All in all, it is truly a site to see, even in ruins, it must have been quite spectacular in its day.

Mosaic Floor at the Theater Quarters

Right after the entrance and to the right is my very favorite part of Ancient Messene. Located West of the Theater and behind the wall is the Theater Quarters. What I love here is the large Roman mosaic floor. It is an amazing remain from the 3rd or 4th centuries AD. I knew there were mosaic floors at this site but this blew me away. The geometric shapes, and writings are clear to see. The Theatre Quarters are domestic areas which may have been used for early Christian gatherings or as a church house. The large mosaic floor is actually 2 different rooms with a columned wall dividing them. Each room has an inscription, one being from the Bishop Theodoulos and the other of the founder Paramonos.

Arsinoe Fountain House

We walked above the Theatre and to the Arsinoe Fountain House. This area has a huge basin shaped fountain, columns, drainage areas, and it is quite large. This fountain is located in the area of the Agora. The Fountain House is named after Arsinoe, who in Greek mythology is the daughter of King Leukippos of Messene. According to the Messenians, she was the mother of Asklepios, the god of healing. The water in the fountain was fueled by the Klepsydra Spring which is further up the hill.

The fountain and building were built in the 3rd century BC. The building in which the fountain is located also contains a large 40 meter cistern near the back wall. Slightly below this cistern, on another level are two additional cisterns on either side of a court. In the center of this building stood bronze statues. Each area, or level had many columns between them.

The North Stoa

The North Stoa was the market place. The west side is long and narrow measuring 196 meters long by 19.8 meters wide. In its day, the Stoa was two stories high with three aisles that were distinguished by two rows of 40 Corinthian columns each. The front was lined with Doric columns. In between the columns of the inner row were inscribed stone bases with bronze statues atop of them. These statues were of the winning Athletes of Messene who had competed in the Panhellenic games. During the Roman period, these statues were replaced with bronze statues of emporers.

The east side of the North Stoa dates back to the 3rd century BC and is 186 meters long by 25.4 meters wide with pavilions on both ends. This also has three walk ways with two inner Corinthian columns and an outer Doric column. Instead of shops, this area was for socializing, walking amongst the columns and having a good time. At the back of this area were alcoves, or nooks which contained statues.

I found the stone tables very interesting. They were used for standard measuring. These stones would measure the comparison of the amount or weight of an item being sold.

Bath House

Another place that you can view are the ruins of the public bath house which was built during Roman times in the 5th century AD.

The Treasury House

The Treasury House is a below ground room. Built with rectangular shaped blocks made of stone and secured with iron dowels and completely sealed on top with two layers of bulky stones. There was a square opening among the bulky stones that was once covered by a 1.5 ton lid.

Portico of the Late Antiquity

This stoa was built in the late Roman times but the columns are from an earlier market place.

Doric Columns of the Asklepieion

The Asklepieion area of Messene is a sanctuary to the god of healing, Asklepios. This area, surrounded by doric columns measuring 3.27 meters (10.7 ft) high each must have been a site to see! This area also included a theater, assembly and council hall. People from other areas would make a pilgrimage here in the hope of being healed.

Ekklesiasterion of Messene

The Ekklesiasterion is also referred to as a small theater. This theater dates to the 3rd century BC. It was used for performances, musical venues and political events. There was an orchestra here as well.

Stoa of the Meat Market

The Stoa of the Meat Market, or Kreopolin, was built in the 3rd century BC and used until the 4th century AD. Some columns still stand, and there’s a stone-carved lion along with mosaic flooring. All in all an amazing ruin.

Mosaic around the Temple of Aphrodite

Another impressive mosaic is the semi-circular mosaic around the circular temple of the goddess of love, Aphrodite.

The Theater of Ancient Messene

Messene’s theater is really amazing. The most unique feature of this theater is it had a moving stage! You can still see the stone groves for the wheels. This theater was built in the 3rd century BC and used up to the 3rd century AD. As with most theaters of this time, dramas, musical shows and political events were held here. In fact, the theater could have held 12,000 people.

Conclusion

In conclusion, we would have loved to spend more time here. Ancient Messene was a bit out of our way but this less visited city is absolutely worth seeing. We did our own self-tour but you can also find a tour through Viator that works for you such as this one. After Ancient Messene we hopped back in the car and headed for the Mani Peninsula.

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