Palamidi Fortress in Nafplio, Greece was a must see for us during our 2024 trip. Also called the New Fortress, it is an exemplary well designed Venetian military complex. It also represents the embodiment of Greek resilience during the 1822 Greek Civil War. This well-preserved Fortress is one of three fortresses in Nafpliio. There is also the Old Fortress, Akronafplia, which I’ll write about in my next post, and the Bourtzi Fortress in the harbor. We were planning to go check it out next, but unfortunately, the boats weren’t running because the water was too choppy. We were disappointed as we were really looking forward to seeing Bourtzi. Hopefully we can return to Nafplio someday and visit it. We explored Palamidi Fortress by ourselves, but if you’re into tours, you can book one through Viator that covers both Palamidi and Bourtzi fortresses.
Location
Palamidi Fortress is located on the south portion of Nafplio, Greece above the Argorlic Sea.
History
You can’t miss the Palamidi Fortress—it’s huge and stands tall on a hill overlooking Nafplio and the Argolic Gulf. This amazing fortress in Greece was built by the Venetians between 1711 and 1714 during their second occupation in the area, interestingly, it was conquered by the Ottomans before it was even finished. Palamidi Fortress stayed under their control until November 29, 1822, when Greece managed to retake power in Nafplio. A group of 350 brave Elite Greek soldiers climbed up to Achilles Bastion. They took the fortress. The Turks surrendered without even a fight. Once Greece became free, Palamidi Fortress turned into a prison. It held those on death row or serving life sentences until 1920.
Palimidi Fortress is huge, with eight separate bastions spread out over the hill. This baroque fortress was cutting-edge for its time. Each bastion is its own fortress, so if one fell, the others were still safe and secure yet they were all connected by an outer wall. After the Greeks took Palamidi, they named the bastions after Greek heroes. Over the years, this fortress has been a key player in a many battles, conflicts, and wars.
Visiting Palamidi Fortress
There are two ways to reach the entrance at Palamidi; the first way is to climb the 999 steps from the foot of the hill to the top! Steve and I had planned to do this from the minute we heard about it; it sounded like a great workout and fun adventure. Until the afternoon we decided to visit! It was just too hot. The temperature was close to 100°F (37.7°C), so the climb was just not an option. I was really happy when Steve agreed it was too hot to climb these 999 steps. So that brings us to the second way to reach the Palamidi entrance: by car. You can drive right up and park in front! This worked very well!
Immediately Palamidi Fortress impressed me. The entrance looked just like what you’d expect from a fortress entrance.
Bastion of Epameinondas
The Bastion of Epaminondas is your gateway into the fortress, and it’s easy to find since it’s right next to the parking lot. This Bastion is named after the 4th century BC general, Epaminondas, who was famous for his cunning military tactics.
While we were paying, the attendee told us to head right first to check out the prisons since it was way too hot to stroll through the whole palace, and there wasn’t much shade. She mentioned that from there, we could walk along the fortress and catch the best views. Given the heat, she was just trying to help us find the best spots quickly to keep from overheating. So, that’s where we started. We ended up doing a bit more, though!
I want to mention good shoes are a must if you plan on exploring this fortress. The cobblestone paths are in good shape, but if you walk to the upper Bastions it is a rough path. Also take plenty of water. We both carried 2 L Hydration Packs and were glad we did.
Miltiades Bastion
The Bastion of Miltiades is named after Miltiades the Younger, an important soldier in the Battle of Marathon in 490 BC. This place used to be a prison and it is where Theodoros Kolokotronis was imprisoned for 11 months. He is a legend and hero from the War of Greek Independence. I thought it was awesome that we could stroll through the bastion at our leisure and wander through the old cells. I definetly would not have wanted to be a prisoner here!
Agios Andreas Bastion
This Bastion looks impresive but when we walked by, there were many tour groups inside, so we thought we’d check it out later. After we explored everything else, it was still busy, so we decided to skip it. It’s named after Saint Andrew, and I have read there’s a small chapel inside dedicated to him. They named it after him because the Greeks took over the fortress on Agios Andreas’ feast day during the War of Independence. It’s right in the center and considered the command center, so it’s also the most secure spot. If you tackle the 999 steps to get to the fortress, this is the first Bastion you’ll hit.
Themistocles Bastion
Themistocles Bastion, named after a prominent politician during the period after the War of Marathon and before the 2nd Persian Invasion (490-479 BC), was known for his strong support of the Athenian Navy. We enjoyed walking on the pathway here.
Bastion of Achilles
As I mentioned before, it was really hot, but with a little push from Steve, we made our way up the rocky path to the upper Bastions. The Bastion of Achilles is named for Achilles, the hero of the Trojan War. Greek mythology tells us Achilles was the greatest Greek warrior ever. It was worth the trek up as the views from Achilles Bastion were just awesome!
Phocion Bastian
We took photos of Phocion Bastion from afar as we were hot and ready to call it good. Named for Phocion the Good, who was a top Athenian politician and was elected 45 times as General during his lifetime (402-318 BC).
Leonidas Bastian
This is one of the Bastians we did not tour. Named for Leeonidas I, King of Ancient Sparta. Hero of the Greeks in the last stand at the Battle of Thermopylae in 480 BC.
Robert Bastian
Robert Bastian is another Bastian we did not make it to. Named after Robert Francois, the French Philhellene who died in 1827 fighting heroically for Grece in the Battle on the Acropolis of Athens.
Views From the Fortress
Even if you have no interest in the architecture, history, or the bastions, Palamidi Fortress is a must-see just for the fantastic views over Nafplio, Greece. The blue of the sea contrasting with the fortress around you, along with the mountains in the background, is just pure Greek beauty.
Conclusion
We found Palamidi Fortress to be a highlight in Nafplio, Greece. We loved the history, the workout, and the views. I did struggle with the heat, although we were able to see most everything we planned on. I would love to go back someday when it is cooler and trek the 999 steps up, and also take my time in each bastion. What a day! We visited Argos Castle, Argos Theatre, and Ancient Tiryns before stopping here. Afterward, when we visited Palamidi, we stopped back at our hotel for a swim! Later in the day, we visited the Old Fortress and in the evening enjoyed Nafplio Town.
Books About the Peloponnese
I love to read and I read many books about Greece. The following helped spike my interest in the Peloponnese area of Greece for many different reasons.
- Greek Letters (Greek Quartet Series) by Suzi Stembridge This captivating series follows an Englishman and his family and their connection to Greece. The series starts in 1827 as the Englishman, on his journey to Greece, finds himself in the middle of Greece fighting for its freedom. The 4 volumes follow the rich history of Greece as it overcomes the Ottoman rule and beyond. I really learned a lot about this time period of Greek history from reading these books. I also found the history of this era of the Peloponnese to be fascinating.
- A Boy Growing Up Under the Nazi Boot and the Greek Civil War by George C. Kradikas. This book is a true account of the early years of Mr Kakridas as his family endures hardships beyond compare while growing up near Sparta during occupation years. A poignant story told with the emotion and memories as only someone living through this period can retell.
- Mycenae from Myth to History This extraordinary book not only goes in-depth to the history and archeological study of ancient Mycenae, it also features photography by Robert McCabe. Actually that is why I purchased this book. Robert McCabe’s black and white photographs of the Greece we do not see are beautiful.
More Books About Greece
Although these next books are not set in the Peloponnese, they are wonderful reads that will endear you to Greece and make you want to book a trip as soon as possible!
- Parthenon on our Roof by Peter Barber. This fun book is a great read to learn more about Greek culture. Peter, an Englishman, moves to Greece and marries his Greek girlfriend, Alex. Read about their adventures as he navigates his new lifestyle in a humorous and also relatable way. As a matter of fact, this is the first in his series and each book leaves you wanting to read more of their adventures.
- Goat in the Maze by Katerina Nikolas. This is the first in a series of books set in a small fictional village in Greece. I have laughed out loud at many of the antics of this fun written series. It has been a great summer read.
- Although not a story type book I love the cookbook, A Drop of Lady & My Greek Soul. Chef Krystina Kalapothakos family history is from the Mani Peninsula area. Her cookbook not only has wonderful, easy to follow Greek recipes, but she also includes great stories and insightful articles on Greece and its cooking culture. Along with family stories, information of interest, and beautiful photos, this book is truly a treasure for anyone who loves Greece!
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Argos Theatre and Agora-August 2024
Exploring the Larissa Castle of Argos,Greece-August 2024
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Ancient Epidaurus: Birthplace of Modern Medicne August 2024
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Ancient Mycenae Greece-August 2024
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